Monday, December 17, 2007

How To Balance Flash with Moving Continuous Light Sources

strobist fire batonEver see those photos that pop up in the Flickr pool that combine strobe and moving lights? Putting light sources in motion -- or capturing lights that move on their own - is fun. But balancing them with strobe means solving for two variables.

For some shooters that can get a little complicated, but it doesn't need to be. More after the jump.
___________________


The Movement Is Your Shutter

The first step in balancing lights-in-motion with flash is to realize that moving light sources are very much like flash, in that their exposure is aperture-dependent. Take the fire juggling photo above for instance, which is by reader Hugh Beauchamp.

The fire in this photo is continuous, so its exposure is determined by both shutter and aperture. But since the continuous light source itself is moving, the speed at which it is moving already determines the effective shutter speed for a given place in the photo.

The faster it is moving, the less time the fire spends on any one spot on the frame to burn itself in, so to speak. So the speed of the motion of the flame is, in effect, it's shutter speed. Assuming a reasonably constant speed, the total exposure is now going to depend on the aperture. (It'll also depend on the ISO, of course, but let's zero that out for the sake of simplicity.)

Let's assume a dark environment. To duplicate the technique of Hugh's spinning fire shot, the process would simply be this:

1. Set your camera to a reasonable ISO. Say, ISO 200, for example. Lock down in a tripod.
2. Get your subject to run through the motion at normal speed as you shoot a few test exposures.
3. Varying the aperture and chimp the back of the camera until you like the look of the burned-in flames.

Now, you have your working aperture, and your shutter is going to be determined by how long and complicated you want the fire "tracks" to be. In this case, Hugh shot at f/10, for 1 second. (He was shooting at ISO 100.)

Now that you have a working aperture, it is a simple thing to adjust your flashes until you get the level of light that you want on your subject. Given that Hugh was shooting against a dark background, he wisely chose to use back/rim lighting to define his subject. This gave him dramatic light (which worked well with the fire) and good internal separation of his tones.

Hugh also chose to include his flash in this photo, which I like. He could have killed the light stand very easily by running a strip of matte-black gaffer tape down the front pole and legs, but now I am just being picky.



You can see Hugh's full lighting setup here, which is basically back/rim lighting plus a CTO'd flash for the face.

You might be thinking it would have been cool to do this at twilight instead of at night, But that's gonna make the whole thing more complicated, as now you have to worry about the sky "burning in" through parts of the juggler as he moves. Not to say that it can't be done. Just gets a little more complex as now you have to worry about your background tracking in various parts of the frame.

Cool shot, Hugh. And for those of you thinking of trying it: Please make sure you have a couple of buckets of water on hand. And resist the urge to keep shooting -- no matter how cool it looks -- if the whole field goes up in flames.

(You can see Hugh's whole combustible set of photos here.)

Get the Full Monte: Follow Strobist on Twitter.
Now Shipping from USA and UK: Strobist Lighting Seminar DVDs
Feed your brain: My Favorite Lighting/Photo Books

22 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Another great post, informative and easy to understand. Thanks for taking the time to make it happen.

December 17, 2007 2:14 AM  
Blogger Ted said...

I think I get it. When the flash(s) fire the main subject is frozen and captured and then after that there is only enough light emmited from the fire in this case to expose that.

December 17, 2007 2:28 AM  
Blogger Jussi said...

Great shot!

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding why it's possible that the person in the picture seems very sharp and without any ghosts. Shutter speed was quite slow after all, 1 second.

Anyone care to explain this thing, I'm sure it's quite simple but I just don't get it right now.

December 17, 2007 2:47 AM  
Blogger Hugh said...

David, thanks for featuring this, it means a lot!

Just to clarify, I was shooting handheld, Richard (the juggler) was moving around far too much for me to be able to compose shots from a tripod.

Hugh

December 17, 2007 4:42 AM  
Anonymous hiro said...

Would you really extinguish instead of shooting?

December 17, 2007 4:54 AM  
Blogger Piotr said...

Hi David,

About balancing flash and ambient (somewhat) I thought you might want to check this out:
http://www.ambrel.net/2007/1007-slingback/index.html

This might be a bit NSFW, especially the other galleries on Ambrel if you care to wander around.

This is not exactly a controlled studio-like situation but they have this fun way of mixing flash and whatever light there happens to be around :)

I shoot a quite a bit of parties myself and I'm going to try this out on the next one!

Cheers!
Piotr

December 17, 2007 5:53 AM  
Blogger BenEmie said...

Great setup !
I already shoot this type of subjet with no strobe and it was very hard to have a good exposure en face.
You can see it there : http://benemie.fr/Les-Olympiades-de-Feu.html
I will try this next time.
Thank's a lot for all you put on this blog ;)
Ben

December 17, 2007 7:38 AM  
Blogger Rams said...

I first met Hugh at the London meetup in September. If any one person can be called a 'Strobist', it's him. Always experimenting and trying new things out. Using any items that are close to hand.

Very impressive photos mate !

December 17, 2007 7:41 AM  
Anonymous http://evenfallphotography.com/photoblog said...

Stunning images! I can't wait to get a hold of some flashes of my own (constantly borrowing). Thanks for the in-depth info on the images.

- http://evenfallphotography.com/photoblog

December 17, 2007 8:31 AM  
Blogger Noah said...

I may be playing "Mr. Statement of the Obvious" here, but doesn't this require that the camera or flash be set to "2nd Curtain Sync" instead of normal operation?

I think if it wasn't, then you'd see the hands / chain frozen when the exposure started, but the fire trails would continue on through the rest of the exposure.

December 17, 2007 9:40 AM  
Blogger scubajunkie said...

@jussi... As you can see, the stage is quite dark except for light from the flash and the fire. While the fire shows up nicely, it is not bright enough to illuminate the performer to any great extent, so the momentary flash of the strobes freezes the image of the performer at that instant.

@all:

I usually get best results using rear curtain sync, but it depends on what you want to accomplish. Using rear curtain sync makes it appear as though the light source trails the subject. Front curtain sync (the default on any camera/flash) can make it appear as though the light source emanates from the subject.

If you are afraid of the neighbors contacting the local fire brigade, have your subject use colored glow sticks (cylume sticks) or glow whips (the glowing necklaces and bracelets for kids). This is one of the few photo activities my son will actually cooperate in. If I have some time, I'll put some pictures up on flikr.

December 17, 2007 10:48 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I am the wondering the same as Jussi here if the shutter was so slow and the photographer was not using a tripod how come the person is so sharp. I am new to any kind of flash photography and I have a feeling that I am stuck in some sort of NO FLASH mind set and missing something very basic here so any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Graham.

December 17, 2007 2:51 PM  
Blogger David said...

FWIW, with respect to front- and rear-curtain sync, I would probably choose front in this situation.

1. The motion is circular and somewhat repetitive, and

2. In a one-second exposure, I would like to have the ability to better time when the flash pop is going to define the person.

-DH

December 17, 2007 2:52 PM  
Anonymous Osmium said...

@Jussi and some others...

Generally, a flash will fire for 1/1000 of a second, even less. So in that setup where everything is dark and the only light sources are the flash and the fire, the flash is freezing the subject, not the shutter of the camera. And apparently, the fire is not strong enough as a light source to make ghosts of the subject to appear.

Hope that helps...

Ben

December 17, 2007 4:12 PM  
Blogger Hugh said...

Hi guys,

Just to clear this one up, I was using first curtain sync on the flash. Like David says, it was important to me to be able to freeze Rich's movement at exactly the right point.

Hugh

December 17, 2007 5:15 PM  
Anonymous Will said...

Cool post, love fire twirling but it's been a while.
I thought a post a link to a few of my fire photos, there were no strobes used but it is an example of using a twilight background for fire twirling to give some inspiration:
http://photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=374308

December 17, 2007 5:36 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Why CTO?

December 17, 2007 10:13 PM  
Anonymous Andy said...

I believe there is no ghosting because the shot is at f10. Hence the flames seem a little thin. I've shot similar subject matter using a wider aperture and a slower shutter speed. Shot that way, or to the naked eye, the flames are likely to seem much more intense, and there is a much higher liklihood of ghosting, an effect I happen to like. Another small (probably obvious) tip: take off any UV or similar filters from your lens to avoid or reduce flare.

December 18, 2007 4:10 PM  
Anonymous lloyd said...

did he set the camera so the flash synced when the shutter closed? so there was no ghosting.

December 18, 2007 8:31 PM  
Blogger Ryan said...

I know this may be completely off topic, but it could be a stretch. David, I am sure you have seen this before, but does this count as off camera lighting.

I just found it on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlWnpz0Di90&eurl=http://lfblog.wordpress.com/category/advertising/

Anyway, great stuff on here David, I can't wait to see where 2008 takes us!

cheers!
www.dimensionsphotography.net

December 18, 2007 11:57 PM  
Blogger Toby said...

I would also suggest playing around with very long shutter speeds. The lens cap can be put to good use when photographing fire spinners ;)

Here's a several-minute long exposure with a fire spinner:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/burnblue/411086423/

Nice write up. I've been wanting to shoot more fire poi with somewhat more dramatic lighting like this.

December 19, 2007 3:28 AM  
Blogger Deer Old Dad said...

I'm in awe, not just of the photog, but of DH. This pic represents for me some of the best of what DH is teaching--the balance, the light position, the cool things a strobe enables. I love the pic.

December 21, 2007 7:41 PM  

Post a Comment

<< Home