The Return of a Classic

To say that the Vivitar 283 and 285 flashes were regarded as workhorses would be rather like calling the VW bug just another popular small car in the 70's.
Consider this little factoid:
Vivitar introduced the 283 in 1972. By 1976, they had already produced their 3,000,000th unit. It's actually a ceremonial flash, made of gold, and it sits in the office of Jim Wellington, who is a Big Cheese at the company.
Jim has been with Vivitar since portable flash was a small pile of magnesium powder. Okay, maybe not quite that long, but Jim has been around the block a few times.
I spoke with Jim last week to get the skinny on the reintroduction of the 285HV. The 285HV is basically a pimped-out 283 that also offers a zoom head and full manual control - just the way we like it. 285HV's are also safe for your digicam, with a ~6v trigger voltage.
PLEASE NOTE that older 285's which are NOT designated as "HV" are NOT voltage safe and can fry your digital baby. Be warned.
The Vivitar 285HV, and its less-versatile sibling, the 283, have been a staple of off-camera lighting for more than a generation. But newer model flashes have gotten more computerized, with TTL functions and wireless IR capability. But they have also gotten price tags to match, heading north of $300 each.
Which is why last year when I started the site, I recommended scrounging for old Nikon SB's. They offer reliable, (and variable) manual flash with a PC jack without the $300 price tag. And at the time of my writing, you could snag them for less than $50.
Alas, the notion of off-camera manual flash gained a tad in popularity over the last year. Those same flashes now regularly go well north of USD $100 - if you can find them. As a side note, I recently picked up a couple of used SB-26's on eBay and you chowderheads bid me past the three-digit mark. Serves me right, I guess.
But now, Vivitar has also noticed the resurgence in off-camera manual flash and has reintroduced the classic workhorse Vivitar 285HV.
Some stats:
• Full manual control: 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/16th power
• External synch terminal
• Bounce head
• Zoom head
• Guide number of 120
• Low (less than 6v) synch voltage to protect your camera
In short, pretty much everything a strobist needs - for under USD $100, brand spankin' new.
Here's the guided tour. As always, click on a pic for a larger version.
Up top, you'll notice a filter slot for cut gels. No rubber bands or velcro needed. Nice touch. FYI, you'll have to build the freebie samples up a little around the edges with gaffer's (or duct) tape to avoid light leakage. If you center it, the loss of light is negligible. Or you can always cough up a little moolah for a real gel sheet.
From the side, you can see the manual control dial. This may seem anachronistic, but it gets you very close to the right exposure before you fire your very first chimping shot. Just fine tune the aperture from the TFT screen on the back of the camera and you are ready to rock, Holmes.You set the ASA and the dial does the math. Totally mechanical, yet linked to both the selected ASA and the flash zoom position. Schweet.
Speaking of zooming, here is the mechanical way it happens. Noted on the flash is a simple "Normal, Tele and Wide" setting. No zooming motors to wear out, either.It ships with a diffusion panel to cover your superwide, too.
Also note the power input jack on the side. You can power this thing with (internal) AA alkalines, Ni-MH's, just about anybody's external high-voltage pack, or Vivitar's rechargeable internal batt packs. Ni-MH's are working just fine - and fast - in my tester unit.
There is a mechanical switch to dial in your manual power. With the neutral density gels in your free sample packs, you could easily get 1/2- (or 1/3-, or 1/6-) stop control, down as many stops as you want beyond 1/16th power.There are four auto ranges, but we are really not interested in those, I hope. Amazingly, it is about the only needless thing that we are paying for in the flash, from an off-camera lighter's perspective.
It ships with a ~6" synch cord that gets you from the proprietary synch jack to PC male. Just add a PC extension cord (MPEX has the 15' PC male - PC female cords for $12.95) and you are totally connected for off-camera flash if your camera has a PC jack. MPEX also has a cord that goes right to a hot shoe. Paramount makes Vivitar-fitted cords, too. The Vivitar fitting is superior to a standard PC fitting, IMO.
Speaking of that, here's a neat little accessory, if you are considering this as a second (or third) light: The Wein "Peanut" Microslave. It's $20, and will fire your 285HV in synch with another light.The connector on this little slave is pure hybrid genius. It fits both the Vivitar-style jack and a PC-male cord. Nice thinking.
They are tiny, too, and plug right into the side of the 285HV. I have been very happy with the sensitivity of mine. You can always improve it with a bit of foil as a tiny reflector if need be. But that is usually not necessary.
If you have struck out in your quest for cheap, used Nikon SB's (they are getting more rare now - sorry) the 285HV is a great solution. Cruising the Flickr pool, I have noticed that the skate rat photogs are all over them. What I love about them is (a) they are totally reliable (b) they are reasonable and (c) you can actually find one. Or two. Or three. No prob.
Vivitar is cranking up production on the flashes, which were quietly reintroduced a couple of months ago. MPEX has a pile in stock, with more a' coming.
He also has something else which is newly arrived that he actually had designed and manufactured just for us but I am getting ahead of myself. That's for next week. I'm psyched.
Way to go, Moishe. And way to go, Vivitar.
__________
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125 Comments:
I have two of these units, but I must say that I like the Sunpak Auto 444D's better. They have a bit more manual control and they also have the bounce, rotation thing going. You can also add color gels and filters to front of the unit. I've found the Sunpaks a little cheaper than the Vivitar 285HV's on ebay.
I followed the Ebay radio trigger threads on the Flickr forum for a while - a lot of problems with the Canon flashes. I bought a used Vivitar 285 in good condition for $40 and it worked perfectly! I'm looking to pick up another!
I'm glad these flashes came back. I have been using them to light sports and portraits. I thought these flashes were no longer being made. Glad to see Vivitar came to there senses not to discontinue a good piece of equipment. I noticed you didn't mention anything about a metal foot to plug in to a Pocket Wizard. I assume you are still able to do that with this flash?
This is great! I have a Canon 580 that I am really thinking about selling on ebay and getting one of these. Great job! I was wondering when someone would see the market for a cheap flash. I hope they sell a whole bunch. Now if someone could just do a reasonable priced Pocket Wizard knockoff....
I snagged a pair of 283s for less than 50 bucks. MINT. Well put, workhorse. I use these as mains as they are really powerful and you know all about my mod of a DIY VP-1
-Eric
Oh man, I'm glad I snagged a cheap 285 before you posted this. These things are built like tanks - I've dropped mine from around 6 feet in the air, with nary a hiccup in its performance.
I'm confused about that little Wein "Peanut" Microslave attachment. So I would attach that to say...one of those Vivitar 285HV flashes and then it could be triggered by another flash? Possibly a 430ex? Help me understand.
Does anybody know where to find them on this (eastern) side of the atlantic pond ?
Ordering them in the us costs half the price of a unit.
Thanks in advance
You can purchase Vivitar 283 on ebay for around $ 40 and then add a vari power adapter and wein peanut microslave unit and still have a strobe with better capability than buying a 285 new.
One has to wonder whether someone like Vivitar, Sunpak or Quantum wouldn't market a portable, battery powered, manually adjustable flash which actually includes both a PC jack and a built in optical slave!
Been using the SB-80DX, but after my visits to Strobist, I went to my equipment closet to dig out my old 1974 workhorses and umbrellas to try some new lighting ideas...2 283's with all the accessories. Wheew! glad I read this before I plugged them in direct and risked turning my DSLR into a baked potato, Thanks, that's what's great about these online forums.
Now a question.. I assume those "peanuts" will work fine to fire the 283's, I just need to figure what to trigger them with?
KB
I don't understand why you dismiss the auto flash capabilities out of hand. It's a useful feature that can reduce the shoot/chimp/adjust time requirement in some situations.
There are no "perfect" flash units, but the Vivitar 285HV looks like a nice "chore tractor" for the money.
I have never understood the appeal of the 283. I liked the 285 better because of the variable power and I like the zoom head. I used the 285's fow weddings with a Mamiya 330 on the auto thyristor settings and they were awesome. Way better than ttl.
JM
It was Al Jacobs who got me onto these a few years back. Great flashguns, cheap as chips and hard as nails! Go buy two on Ebay for the price of one old Nikon.
I've used these next to my SB-800 and it's basically the same power output give or take half a stop. That and a simple zoom head, adjustable power and, with external battery pack, near instant recycling.
Great news they're back in prod'. Don't bother with the 283 as the VP-1 modules are near impossible to get now.
285's rock!
I'm confused, Vivitar's web site does not list any flashes at all and their customer service says they no longer make flashes. Any ideas as to what is really happening?
Woot! I am so happy that I picked up my used 285s last month before the cat got out of the bag. Buyers should beware, though. These units are fairly bulky and there's no swivel.
What are the "freebie samples" of filters and how do I get one?
I used to like 285s, but eventually I found them too inconsistent and too weak for their size (not to mention the abysmal recycle times). The proprietary connector is a real turn-off, too.
To Adam-
I use my 285's with nickel-metal hydride (NiMh) rechargeable battaries. They totally rock on both the number of flashes and recycle time. Make sure you get 2500 mah or higher capacities, too.
-Eric
B&H has the "freebie" gels. Just go to their website and search for Rosco gels. Sort by price and you'll see the sample packs for $0.01.
Now if Vivitar (flash), pocket wizard (receiver) and manfrotto (adjustable tripod and umbrella head) could get together and design a single case unit with no open wires and flimsy flash camera feet that would be awesome!
Maybe there could even be an extra compartment for 4-5 extra NiMh batteries to increase recycle times and extend flash life!
To Anthony:
You trigger the slave-equipped flashes with another flash, probably attached to your camera's PC outlet or hot shoe. I just did a 3-flash setup photographing a dancer in a studio last weekend. A Viviater 283 marked "Korea" or "China" is safe on a dSLR's hot show as it presents a low trigger voltage of 6 volts. It's the ones marked "made in Japan" that can possibly deep fry your camera's flash circuits.
My "Joe McNally" kit is six 283s, two more Armato converted to bare bulb, two morris mini wides and two morris minis.
Works for me!
Clive
JeffM
I am having trouble with my 285HV and my e-bay slaves. The slaves trip my SB-28 and SB-28DX and eve the SB-800. Anyone else having this trouble.
I'm so glad this is coming back. Looks like Vivitar understands. Now, if someone connected with PW understood the "boiling frog syndrome", they could increase their market share. If a business fails to observe changes in the marketplace or in customer needs, and fails to react, they won't be able to see the subtle changes which eventually amount to a large shift in the marketplace (read: ebay triggers or the like). I think a trimmed down PW version, with $100 or less price tag would make a lot of strobists dump the ebay's in a flash (pun intended). You can buy a full-blown beamer, or a beamer with fewer options, but BMW still increases it's market share, not "some other company".
Thank you Vivitar for bringing back "the tank"
I poked around but didn't see this mentioned anywhere else. Pocket Wizard makes a small miniphone to PC-female adapter (available at MPEX or with photo at B+H). With the Vivitar flash's included Vivitar-to-PC cable, shouldn't this satisfy the PW connectivity problem, too? I haven't done it myself. It's cheaper than a miniphone to hotshoe adapter.
I barely had noticed that they where discont. Glad they brought them back. Its so so strange that people would go and buy a 430 canon or a second 580 flash! are they nuts? they could buy a 2 of these flashes and a set of radio slaves for what it cost for 1 canon 580! They talk as if they can not live without Ettl or schmit ettl !!. Who cares those ettls are not worth "squat". Totally unreliable depending if there is a white wall behind your subjects or a mirror near by or a black wall or just shooting out in the dark outdoors. To many variables. Shoot manual and its dead on every time period. Newbies wake up and get a clue and see how the old pros have done it for years!
Thats FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC! No more buying broken SB's from sleezy ebay sellers at tripple thier 2005 price. In fact, I'll probably sell mine for as much or more than the price of a 285HV and pick up a couple of those instead. Looks like a very nice unit, especially for the strobist way of working. Very nice. (BTW, I never managed to find even ONE used 285 when I looked... the new market is the way to go!)
Then I just have to buy a pair of PW's for my main flash, a couple of those optical slaves for the second/third/..., and ditch the unreliable ebay radios.
-Tim
This is indeed cause for celebration. I am a cave photographer and have been using the V285 (and 283 and a handful of other miscellaneous strobes) since the early 70's. My Vivitar strobes have stood up to some grueling conditions underground, being dragged down crawlways, up and down numerous pits and probably some time in the water as well. Workhorse indeed! The only problem I've ever had has been corrosion of some of the battery contacts and dirt getting into the sensor dial on the front. I've learned to take them apart for a full cleaning of the window and the round electrical contact points inside that tiny little device. I've also noticed that the spring contact point in the hotshoe (where you plug in the PC connector) sometimes gets corroded. It's a bit more challenging to clean that as it involves taking the shoe apart, but all my strobes still work.
As a vendor of some cave photography equipment, I was directing people to the Sunpak 383S as an alternative to the V285. Same GN but also with a swivel head and full dial down capacity of 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 (which 285 didn't have) and 1/16. One drawback to the 383S may be the dual swivel head, meaning the possibility of breakage under tough conditions.
Since someone asked about slaves, I am the US distributor of Firefly Slaves for Cave Photography. They are an astounding infrared slave that can trigger up to 1,500' away (yes, that's correct, one thousand, five hundred feet). They trigger around corners, behind rocks, etc. They will also trigger a flashbulb/flashgun configuration such as a Honeywell Tilt-a-Mite, something none of the other slaves will do. There is also a new digital version of the slave called the Firefly 3, designed to work with as many preflashes (or none for that matter) that your trigger flash puts out. Contact me at pjcaver@gwi.net for more info if you are interested.
To sum it up, if Viv flashes can survive the trashing I put them through, they are about the best workhorse flash on the market. I am VERY PLEASED that they're back again!
pjcaver
Great news. I just ordered one and the pocket wizards. I have been using an SB800 with the Nikon CLS system but set up time is slow and manually setting the flash is a pain
I use 283s with VP1s mostly for the remote flash stuff, I like them better. They are smaller and the VP1 has a smooth adjustment rather than a click-click. They have great duration especially on the lower settings if you shoot action, I am not sure but I think the duration is a little longer on the 285s.
I need to keep up with this blog, lots of good stuff on here. One of these days I'll get back into the flickr strobist group.
Don't trust any Vivitar 283 flash. All you need to do is turn it on and attach a multimeter from the pin on the bottom to the metal on the side of the shoe and measure the voltage. You do this when the flash is on -- as far as I understand it you don't need to trigger the flash (the voltage change would barely register on a digital multimeter anyway). Do the same with any 285 HVs you buy. I have found that made in China 285 HVs are low voltage but again when it is *so* easy to check you should do so.
One trick I read to trigger optical slaves is to put a piece of exposed film in front of your onboard DSLR flash. The spectrum of light to trigger the optical slaves will get through but the other light won't. I think David (Strobist) wrote about this in one of the many excellent essays.
I brought my 285HVs a couple months ago when I saw how much SBs were going to cost.
Great to hear that new Viv 285s are around again! Pity they did not add a swivel in this incarnation .. and the addition of 1/8th power would have been nice, too.
Another very good option in the same spirit of the Vivitar is the Sunpak 383. The sync jack is a standard sub-mini plug (and they include a PC cable, too), they have manual power from 1/1 to 1/16 (without skipping 1/8, what's up with that??), and a tilt/swivel head too. They do not have the zoom head, though, but they are smaller than the 285s. They run for $80 brand new at B&H or Adorama.
I would be interesting to see a 3-way shootout between the sunpak 383, vivitar 285, and a used SB24 since all are at about the same price now.
This is ridiculously insanely cool!
I haven't used on-camera strobe for anything -- anything -- in the past month. Multiple reasons, one being that I'm sick of never getting a good exposure in ETTL.
The day before you posted this I had a brain flash! I remembered that when I started out in photography with a Vivitar 283 that it got the flash output very very close all the time with no fiddling required from me (other than to tell it what aperture I wanted to use).
Then I had a second brain-flash! Why in the world do I have a $300 flash wasting away in my camera bag when I could get just as good results from a $50 283?
So next morning the first thing I do is put my 550EX for sale (it's already sold too), with the idea of getting one or two 283s. After I post the sale listing, my RSS reader tells me that there's a new post over at Strobist.com. So I click over and what do I find? Vivitar is making brand new 285s that are safe for modern cameras.
What excellent timing is that? So the next thing I do is call my supplier and my brand-new $90 flash will be here next week.
Sorry, I just think this is the coolest thing to happen for a while.
All I can remember about the 283 is that it had a range of about 10' and that I was overjoyed to replace it with an E-TTL flash.
Forgive me for not getting over-excited at this reintroduction, but maybe I'm not seeing it the same way as the rest of you.
Anonymous:
First, he is takingabout the 285.
Second, If you think the 283 only had a range of "about 10 feet" then you are probably better off relying on TTL!!! Just try not to think and let your expensive camera drive.
Eric
Thanks for this great article. I've been thinking about putting my 285 back to work, and that little microslave looks like the perfect way to do it. Glad to see these units back in production, and I can't believe the price -- I'm pretty sure mine (my second) was $100 when I bought it 17 years ago.
Glad to see this, as I intend to buy a set of 285HVs to jump into this Strobist boat.
Grrrrrr!
285HV at MPEX - $99
285HV at Jacobs in the UK - £99 !!
You see why we UK strobists have a hard time?
Cool that Vivitar have seen the light and done this, though. I did wonder why people blow so much on the SB800s etc, I decided to buy a Quantum T and Turbo, used, for a similar price. The 285HVs look ideal for additional lights.
Sure would love to see some pics taken with the 285HVs.
Eric
Anonymous- You musta had one seriously defective 283! Isn't the 283's rated guide number like 110?
I dislike Vivitar's proprietary connector also, but at least Pocket Wizard has a PW-to-Vivitar cable: Pocket-Wizard MV1 Miniphone to Vivitar Cable - Straight - 12", Mfr# 80441
I ordered a 285HV today, to get started on this crazy Strobist action before I head to Iraq. I'll probably have at least 3 of them by the time I get back.
don't know if it's been said, but a really nice extra feature of the 285's is the flash duration at full power which is quite fast; about 1/1000th of a second. Perfect for freezing action without having to turn your flash power down.
I recently bought a film camera (Nikon FE) and the guy sold me his complete kit; lenses, filters, flash. The flash was a Vivitar 285HV unit. All the stuff was babied by the original ownwer. Haven't used it yet, infact I was gonna sell it. But now, I'm holding on to it! Sweet, thanks for the info!!!
Hi,
I am wanting to try and use a couple of the Vivitar 285HV's with eBay radio triggers, but can't quite figure out if I need to purchase additional sync cords to connect up or not.
I am looking at this eBay "kit" (which looks suspiciously like the one's B&H are selling under the Speedtron brand) and am thinking that I would need the receiver to have a female PC socket to be able to connect the 285HV via the Vivitar's supplied PC sync cord. Is that correct?
Thanks if you could shed some light on this or suggest some other cheapo, but tested eBay radio triggers that work.
Weird. The description for the B&H Speedtron thing reads like an optical trigger.
Question on the Vivitar - I found a description that gives the Guide Number on the 285HV as:
70' @28mm
100' @35mm
120' @50mm
140' @105mm
These "mm" numbers represent the different ways you can extend the flash head, right? Is there a page on Strobist that explains how this works (ie: when to position the head in which slot)?
I just read about the re-into of the Vivitar. I still have my old 283.
I recently bought a Metz 54MZ4 to use on my Canon 1Ds. It will run in traditional "Auto Mode", it's pretty decent for on-camera PR stuff. Bounces good with the betterbouncecard method. It also runs fully manual with a flash power reduction dial.
I am in the process of getting the parts to make an umbrella rig that holds my flash like in the Lighting 101 tutorial. I am going to make a custom top with some alumimum bar stock and 2 cold shoes to hold both my Metz and 283, aimed into the center of the umbrella.
Anyone know what is the approximate degree of flash angel the stock Vivitar 283 flash lens has? It would be nice to dial in my Metz to produce a similar light as my 283 when I run them together into the umbrella. My Metz head lens goes from 20 to 105 degrees.
Personally I think the 285 lacks because you can't go lower than 1/16 power compared to what 1/64 with sb24.
If you want to work around the proprietary issue on the sync and you want a foot that you can screw a stud right into it, you might look into getting a
Flash Foot I from Holly Enterprises in Van Nuys, CA
Might take a little searching to find them but I think they sell for $50 a bottom portion to retrofit the 285 so you can plug a household connection into it to trigger the flash. It's metal with a screw hole in the bottom for a stud so you can attach it to a camera pretty easily or you can just by the wein hsh hotshoe adapter.
Just got back to reading Strobist, happy to see about the Vivitar 285 coming back. A few comments:
1) 1972? I bought my first 283 in 1976 and my recollection is that it was a brand new model then, announced as new in late 1975. It came standard with the remote sensor cord, too, which I still have and use.
2) Why a 283 instead of a 285? Same output, less size. One of the wonders of a 283 is the small size of the flash for the amount of power it has. I carried mine on bicycle tours, etc., when size mattered a lot. From a Strobist point of view, though, the 285 is much handier, especially with the built-in Vari-power.
3) High trigger voltage issues are waaay overstated. The early ones did have high trigger voltages, but later models (1990 on?) went at 6V. People froth about this, just get a voltmeter and measure it. And has anyone actually fried a camera with a 283/285? I hear dark allusions, I've never heard a firsthand account.
4) One guy thought the 283 only went out to 10 feet. What? I've used them for years at greater distances than that bounce-flashing.
5) I like the 283 enough that I wrote a page about it. See A Day in the Life of a 283 which is nearly all (please forgive me) on-camera flash. Also, for a fun Stupid 283 trick, take a look at this photo where a 283 on yellow range, close up, caught a hammer smashing a light bulb.
6) Having read Strobist, I got a couple of PWs and have been having all kinds of fun. Beware, though, the PocketWizard Vivitar cord is very sharp and pointy!
Great blog, by the way, I still use on-camera flash for some things but am expanding my horizons. Never too old to learn, certainly never too old to buy new gear!
Cheers
Matt Cole, Saint Paul MN
This is not the dependable 285 of old!
Encouraged by these reviews and wanting to own one for a long time, I purchased a 285HV for Ace Camera Club through amazon.com.
Five minutes into testing it I heard the loudest explosion you'd ever hear a flash make, then smoke began coming out of it.
The retailer has not answered the email I sent out since last night, and they would probably suggest that I send it for an exchange.
I also emailed Vivitar but they are yet to reply.
Living in Trinidad in the Caribbean, this would be an uneconomical option.
Hi!
I just ordered a 285HV from ebay.
I want to use it off camera, triggered by those "el cheapos" RD616 eletronic triggers from ebay (always ebay...)
My question is: How the RD616 receiver is conected to the Vivitar 285?
Should I buy any adapter, cord, or it has a headphone style female inlet on it?
I ask it because the RD616 male plug is a headphone like...
Thnk you
Ricardo
Anon said:
Personally I think the 285 lacks because you can't go lower than 1/16 power compared to what 1/64 with sb24.
Look at http://www.hiviz.com/activities/guidebook/Activity_02.html to see how to drop the power way way down using a paperclip (try THAT with a Nikon).
My 283 goes down to about 1/200 power (7.5 stops) when those pins are shorted out.
I've got 283 x 2 and 285, just buy replacement feet from e-bay when, not if, you break them.
I also have a 365, vari-sensor and fully manual variable power monster hammer unit, will they bring that back too???
I've been using vivitar 283's and 285HV's for 10 years or more and I never knew that the peanut slaves would just plug into the side of them..... jeez....All that needless messing about with cords.
Thanks Dave....
I got excited about this, but heard these 285HVs are unreliable. See the story of the "exploding" 285 above. I will not buy this. I'd rather spend more money no quality than to fry a shoot. After all, these are made in China. And look at it: you think you could get a good pro flash for 90$?
Wein Peanut Slave Help:
I was having problems getting my Sunpak 383 Super to respond to the Wein Peanut Slave. After googling similar issues, I discovered that the Wein Peanut is meant to interface with PC connections AND Vivitar connections. News? Not really, but it meant that I needed to slightly "bend" (shift, really) the center post/pin of the 383's PC Cord. Connection made. Problem solved. Hope this helps anyone in the future.
I just bought two Vivitar 285HV units and Wein peanuts to supplement my off camera flash. They will not work together. I ordered some of the Sonia slaves from eBay. They won't work with the 285s either. The 285s work ok with my pocket wizards. My studio lights and an old Hanimex manual flash work with both the Wein peanuts or the Sonia slaves. The problem is obviously with the 285s.
Just to update my last post. I read on a Flickr thread that Wein told a poster that the Peanut needs 5v to trigger. My Vivitar's trigger voltage measures at 4.3v. This probably explains the problem
Back in the 1980's I had several 283/285's and they were real work-horses. I read this review and promptly ordered a 285HV from NY.
It worked for 33 shots and failed. I ordered a replacement (overnight) as I needed it for a shoot. It arrived and I put in brand new Duracells to form the battery and nothing. Several tries later, I got the flash tube to light-up (stay on, faint like a LED).
Both flashes are leaving today, back to the NY store for a refund.
I was really disappointed to have these fail. I don't think I get another one.
-LANLINE
To Matt and others about trigger voltage...
I'm a little confused that just the designation of "HV" means it is safe. My 10-year old 285 says "HV" and it is definitely not safe and yes, Matt, I did fry my circuitry on two cameras with it, both times because my Wein Safe Sync went out but still allowed flashes through. (This is over the course of 8 years since I moved to digital.)
I bought a new 285 today based on reviews saying it WAS safe now, but now I'm wondering what is the difference? The manual makes no reference to changes in trigger voltage. I'm still a little worried about using it without a safe sync.
I asked an electrician friend to test mine with a voltage meter and got such grossly varying measurements that he was unwilling to say for sure it was one thing or another.
Deanna-
The "HV" designation has nothing to do with the trigger voltage, It means it will take a high-voltage battery pack.
The new Vivitar 285 HV's all have safe trigger voltages, FWIW. It is the older ones that can be out of range of your digicam.
I only brought up the "HV" because of this line in the post:
PLEASE NOTE that older 285's which are NOT designated as "HV" are NOT voltage safe and can fry your digital baby. Be warned.
I wanted to be clear that my old 285 DOES say HV on it and is not safe. You have to check them to be sure, as they do not refer to their trigger voltage in the manuals.
Last night I got out a voltage meter myself and checked it. On my old 285HV (bought in 1999), the resting and ready trigger voltage is around 5.6 volts BUT when you fire the flash, as it is recharging, it spikes to 10-12. I tested my brand new 285HV and it was down to 2 or 3 when resting and only spikes to 4 or 5 when recharging.
The only physical difference I can find between my old one and new one is the shiny discs are bluish on the new one instead of pure silver. I will mark them to never mix them up!
The day I fried my Canon 10D earlier this year I had done six shoots in a row, about 700 images, using very low fill flash with the 285 in the yellow setting. I heard a little pop and my camera would no longer fire the flash via hotshoe OR x-sync. I pulled it off, and the flash worked on a different camera. I pulled my Wein safe sync off and could hear something jiggle loosely. I figure I had been shooting with it broken for part of the day and finally fired one too many 10+ voltages and it fried the circuitry. It's a $350 repair.
But the new 285HV checks out as safe! Hooray! It's a GREAT flash. My professional photography group tested five major flashes including Metz, Canon, Nikon, Sunpack and this Vivitar for consistency using about six light meters in a light controlled environment. The other flashes could be off as much as 2 STOPS at times, but the Vivitar never varied once.
@ Deanna
I just bought a 285HV and also saw that the shiny disks on the sides are blue. It turns out that these disks are just a blue film to protect the silver from scratching when in transit. Just peel it off.
Ha! How embarrassing. Blue film! I guess I'll go pull it off now!
(I forget to take my lens cap off pretty much 100% of the time too--it's the mark of a seasoned professional, really!)
Deanna...thanks for you post. I recently bought a new 285HV from MPEX but then started doing the search to see the voltage ratings and see if it would be okay on my canon rebel xti. The mpex site claims it is safe, but searching on the web pulls up varied information. I am assuming this is because Vivitar did not change the name for the old 285HV and the new one, so when people post about them, so are talking about the old voltage ratins, while others are talking about the new ones....so confusing. So anyways, I have been worried about it frying my XTi. I was considering going and buying a voltmeter just to be sure, but your post has made me feel better.
Hi.
This is what I got as my 6" sync cord, not the one described above. (I think)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14566529@N03/2132124283/
Did I get the wrong sync cord?
Or am I wrong? (I'm new to Strobist:))
Regarding the Wein Peanut digital slave trigger, I tried two different ones with my new 285HV, and neither worked. From what I've been able to find out, the Wein peanuts work better with strobes that have a trigger voltage greater than 10 or so, and my 285HV's trigger voltage is only 4.5. I finally gave up, and bought a set of the V2S radio triggers from Gadget Infinity. So far I've been very satisfied.
I had trouble getting either a Wein Ultra Peanut or a Fotodiox hotshoe slave to work with a new Vivitar 285HV using NiMH batteries. The problem disappeared when using lithium AA batteries, and was much reduced using alkaline AA's.
I mentioned above that using lithium AA's in the Vivitar 285HV made the optical slaves more reliable than using alkaline AA's. That was 50 flashes ago. Both 285HV's started to smoke within 30 seconds of each other after 50 flashes and are now not working. Is it possible that new 285HV's are incompatible with lithium AA's or is it possible that after a total of 75 flashes they that likely to just die together?
Greetings,
Anybody have any ideas where I can find a non-working 285HV for parts? I've got one that works great but It's missing the lens elements. If so I'd greatly appreciate an email. Thanks!
- Owen
anotherheathen "at" hotmail dot com
Greetings,
Anybody know where I might pick up a non working 285HV for parts? I have one that works great but it's missing both lenses in front of the actual flash element. If you have any thoughts I'd appreciate an email. Thanks!
- Owen
anotherheathen "at" hotmail
been debating about this for a ew days - been told that the canon 430 is a more powerful flash than the vivitar 285. also tried it with a vari power adapter but when used with the peanut slave the power varies changes depending on what i chose asthe setting for teh bult in flash. shouldnt they be independent? also will the vivitar 285 burn up my canon 30d camera?
My 285 worked fine with an ebay radio slave until today, when it began firing out-of-sync and then stopped working altogether. Still works fine with the the camera hotshoe or a hotshoe sync cord, though. Rather annoying, as I was just getting into using two off-camera flashes.
After reading Stobist.com, I decided to take the plunge and buy one of the Strobist kits from MPEX with the Vivitar 285HV.
The connection between the hotshoe to household cord and the Wein household to hotshoe adapter was flaky, sometime worked, sometime not.
However, while diagnosing the problem, I test fired the flash with the built in red button, and heard a loud pop and smelled smoke.
Called MPEX, and they are going to exchange the defective gear for no charge.
I hope that this is a case of a defective unit, and not the model in general.
I bought a wein hotshoe optical slave from MPex for my brand new vivitar 285hv. Nothing. Couldn't trigger it with my 580ex. So thinking the Wein was defective, sent it back for a replacement fotodiox. Still nothing. Had MPex test a fotodiox before shipping it to me, said it worked fine on their 285 (hv?) so I get the new slave (3rd replacement) and still nothing. I can't tell you the frustration level right now. So I took the fotodiox to a local camera store and it fired perfectly on their 283. So I'm thinking I have a defective 285. But then I read about the voltage trigger levels and lithium vs NiMh batteries. So I'm going to test that but I don't want my vivitar to start smoking like that one guys.
Ok got it to work. On the battery housing for the vivitar is says alkaline 1.5v, I was using 1.2 nimhs. It would be nice if there was a large red sign printed on the box saying 'won't work with most rechargeables!'
Will the voltage excess on the older flashes fry circuitry when connected to the pc port or only the hotshoe?
The voltage excess with fry the cameras period. Hot shoe or x-sync. You must use a safe sync with older 285 models. It won't happen right away. It can take a few months in some cases. The first camera I fried took about three days. The second one (my safe sync had quit working) happened in one very intense day of shooting, about 800 fires.
Be careful on the newly produced 285HV flash units. I just bought one, and like many it seems, had it produce smoke, a pop, and stop working. Opening it up it is a 1/4 watt sense resistor that fails and am now jumping through hoops with Vivitar's warranty process trying to get a new one.
Is there a way to hook these flashes up to radio transmitters and if so, which ones work the best?
I use pocket wizards with the Vivitar flash and it works well. Just make sure you order the correct cable when you get your pocket wizards.
My father was a wedding photographer from the 1960's up to the 1990's.
He said that the Vivitar 285 was the only flash that actually put out the power which the manufacturer claimed.
I have his flash now - and he has bought himself another one.
pjcaver here again. I posted a comment a year or two ago about how happy I was that the 285HV has been reintroduced to the market as it was such a good workhorse flash unit. Experience has led me temper my opinion of them.
The operative word here is "was". Like so many other things, they just don't make 'em like they used to. The construction is much flimsier than it used to be. I've sold quite a few of them over the past couple of years and I am disappointed with them, compared to their predecessors. I've had several people return them to me after normal usage and the problem seems to be fairly consistent: They appear to charge up to full capacity, but they only emit the weakest of flash (as though it is permanently set on 1/16th power) when set on full manual power. There have been a few other problems as well such as the battery holder contact not contacting properly.
I absolutely love my older 285HV flashes and an assortment of other Vivitar flashes I've acquired over the years, but I give the new 285HV flash a thumbs down for quality control. I no longer recommend it to my clients in cave photography but rather suggest the Sunpak 383 S as a better alternative.
pjcaver
I just want to check that I really understood this correctly:
If I have a flash with the wrong voltage, can it damage my camera regardles of how I sync it or does it have to be connected to the hotshoe?
Just checking...
Tony, if you have an older flash with too high a trigger voltage (like the OLD Vivitar 285s, not the new ones) it can damage your camera (ususally over time, not in one shot) if you put it on your hot shoe OR use your x-sync cord. It cannot damage anything by being slaved either by infrared, radio, or light pulse, as there is no voltage going to your camera in those cases.
I agree that the new Vivitars are not as good as the old ones. In regular use, they take as much as FOUR TIMES LONGER to recycle as the old ones. I may blow out a safe sync every 8 months, but it is worth it to have a near-instant recycle on my 9-year-old Vivitar. A baby's smile is often very fleeting and a first bridal kiss doesn't happen on replay...
i just bought 2 units of vivitar recently form ebay. Then now, I'm thinking of buying a wireless flash trigger from ebay as well.
1) can vivitar 283 be triggered by wireless flash trigger? to particular the model of that trigger is PT-04 V2.
2)How do i control the output power on the vivitar 283? Because some say that i need the varipower VP-1 adapter in order to allow me to control the output power? If I dont have that, am i able to control the output power?
3) some of the readers said that the vivitar 283 and 285 without the "HV" can fry the camera circuit. But if i want to use those flash only for off camera flash (wirelessly), will i face the same problem?
Just a word of caution for European buyers:
I am a wedding photographer in France. I bought my Vivitar 285HV by mail order from the US. It arrived 3 months later and did not work.
I discovered there was a vivitar after sales company in France, called them and they offered to have it fixed.
I don't hear anything from them for 1 month after sending the unit in. When I call them they claim to never have received anything.
I spend a few hours with the French post to get the receipt that the parcel was delivered and upon faxing this receipt to Vivitar France they miraculously find my strobe again :)
They say they're waiting for a batch of these to arrive from Asia in the next month.
Another month goes by and when I call them they say they can not receive such flashes in Europe because vivitar has not paid a special licence (ROHS). So they're sending the broken flash back to me.
conclusion: 6 months, a lot of postage expenses, custom duties expenses, phone calls, time... and still no working flash :(
Shauqi:
The cactus trigger & receiver (pt-04, v2) you mentioned work great on my 285hv; I just connect the receiver straight to the flash via the hotshoe connection. The receiver mounted on hotshoe on my 30d triggers it consistently. Do the same with the 283 and you should be in business.
As mentioned in above posts, don't worry about frying anything when you're shooting off camera with the cactus triggers; there's no voltage involved with the camera.
My only concern is like most others...there may be times when I need to have the vivitar on-camera, but until I get myself a voltage meter to ensure my 285hv copy is under 6volts, I'd rather be safe than sorry and only use it off-camera.
Hello...
I'm thinking about buying one of this 285 as an off camera flash to use when shooting on locations (umbrella, etc.) but I have only one doubt...
I have an ALZO flash trigger/receiver: http://alzodigital.com/online_store/wireless_flash_trigger.htm
Question for any fellow photographer who wish to help a newer brother =)
Will it work with this flash?
Thank mates ;)
The slave "angelvs" inquires about is actually the same radio slave for sale on eBay under many different names. I know because I just acquired one from a friend last week. Tried it out with an older 285HV I acquired back in 1992 during a National Geographic Television shoot in Lechuguilla Cave in New Mexico.
The 285 still works like a charm after all these years. The small slave we're talking about here works up to about 50 feet in a straight line of sight, but no more than that. I know there are lots of blogs out there talking about boosting the distance they will trigger from by adding an antenna of sorts, but I have not pursued this myself. The friend who gave me the slave to try out said that he's experimented with it and has had success up to 400 feet away, through several walls. I think there is some question of the legality of doing so, but I'm sure what that is.
I am about to teach a cave photography workshop at Carlsbad Caverns National Park on Oct 22, 23, 2008. Using this radio slave will be a benefit for shooting the cave using strobes. Even though I am the US dealer of Firefly Slaves which are designed for cave photography, they are so sensitive to flashes that they will be false triggered by people over a thousand feet away from me, causing all sorts of problems. As such, radio slaves in this particular situation are the way to go. In any other cave photo situation, I would certainly use the superb Firefly slaves as they are the best, by far.
Once again, I am not a big fan of the new 285 HV on the market. They're just not as good as they used to be.
pjcaver@gwi.net
www.pjcaver.com
After a few months of gentle use, mine died. I would not recommend this product.
I just picked up a Vivitar 285 ( no HV) at an estate sale for a couple $$- New in the box Made in Japan- Can it be used on a Digi- Ie. D2h or via cable to a grip.
Love the flash with my daughters AE-1...
My SB-80 just doesn't cut it for the D2H
I have two brand new 285HV's and just purchased two of these AC adapter units, which are supposed to work with this strobe. I have been unable to get them to work. Despite the advertising claims and what the manual states, these strobes will run off batteries only. I am not the only one having this issue. No one has yet come forward with a fix, including Vivitar. A previous reviewer here reported the same thing, and many more can be found on this thread at Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157603963277639
Has anyone gotten these to work with 285HV's? Having the same issue? Fixed it? Please post your input on the thread linked above.
What I great site, although I don't get to frequent it enough, I have just subscribed to the email notifications so that I can keep on top of things. Great post about vivitars. I have been using them for over 10 years now, it was my very first flash, and I tend to use them now more than any other strobe/flash I have. I even bought a few for under $10. :) Anyways, just thought I would send a comment stating on what a great job your doing. Cheers
James
www.hodginsphotography.com/blog
The brand name Vivitar or some portion of this company has been acquired by Sakar. I learned this today after my 285HV broke down, only one month after the original purchase. Sakar promises to honor the original warranty, but not until they begin to manufacture Vivitar products (scheduled for February 2009). I am considering purchase of a second flash in the interim. Canon maybe?
February 2009
I bought mine from mid west.
The flash wouldn't synch with the peanut slave. The tip of the pc cord wouldn't properly fit into hole. It was loose. I applied pressure to seat it properly and even then the flash woldn't synch.
I have several older 285's. quality of new one's is cheap.
mid west was very cool...they wanted to send me out another one and i opted out and bought used nikon sb's from them. very nice, helpful people, i would NOT recommend the new vivitar 285 still same problems.
I recently got ahold of my father's old Vivitar 283 from 1975! Amazingly, after dusting it off, it still works! What a piece of equipment. My question is, however, after reading about the voltage syncing with new digital cameras, what is the best and easiest way for me to use it as an external flash with my Nikon D300? Do I need to buy a radio transmitter or wireless hot-shoe link or can I connect it up to the camera using the hot-shoe - to - "light sensor" (on the flash) cable that came with?
BTW, I am new to strobist, and have been on your site every day for a week! I'm a new fanatic!!
Two things: GeoffreyWithAG has found an old V285. If it was made in 1975, it was likely made with a very high trigger voltage. In the small print under the head of the flash, it will likely say Made in Japan. DO NOT use this on the hotshoe of your digital camera as is. You will probably fry the electronics on the first shot. Invest $50 in a Wein Safesynch which will lower the trigger voltage to an acceptable 6 volts, safe for on camera usage. You can attach the V285 to most slave units which will not be damaged by the high voltage and trigger them with your built-in on camera flash as an alternative.
Phoric asked about using the AC adapters to power their flashes. I read the responses about it on
the Flickr website and agree with most of what people are saying. I use older V285s and if you plug in the adapter, you MUST turn the flash ON for it to work with the external power adapter. Won't work otherwise. Recharge time is VERY fast, indicating it is not the batteries that are powering it. Older V 283s work WITHOUT turning the power switch on.
As for the new V285, I already said several times before to avoid buying it. It just is not what it used to be and seems to have caused nothing but problems for most people. The older versions are great workhorse flashes and can still be bought used and functional off eBay. Use them all the time myself in my cave photography and they work great!
pjcaver
Great article.
I've been using an old nikon SB-26 manually on my Bessa r2m rangefinder, using a Nikon CS-17 off-camera cord and it works well.
Though I'm thinking about getting a 285HVs, can i still use my CS-17 cord with it?
Cheers!
Hi, I saw a Wein Peanut Microslave in a camera shop when I was in town and a week later rang and got them to post one out to me - but what I got was not a Microslave, but an Ultra Slave (PN-XL) - second-hand. On the box it says it's a high-powered version of the original 'Peanut' slave and that it's compatible with the Vivitar 283/285 and all non-dedicated flashes. Which makes me wonder if it's compatible with my Nikon SB flashes. I do know that the original Vivitar had a high sync voltage and I don't want to damage my SBs. Can anyone tell me if it's safe to use with SBs? thanks, Richard
Richard: You should have no problem using the PN-XL slave in terms of voltage. The slave is a passive device (no batteries) so it will not hurt the strobe. It is only when you mount a high voltage STROBE on the hotshoe of your camera that you need to be concerned. However, the PN-XL is designed to plug into a Vivitar strobe OR use a PC connector (Prontor-Compur is the name of the company that originally designed it. It does not mean Personal Computer.... A better definition is Poor Connection). These are the older design of connectors before hotshoes came along.
Since Nikon is very proprietary of their designs, you may not be able to plug the slave into the Nikon flash. I'm not sure if Nikon SB strobes have a PC connector either. I don't think they do.
Sorry for the bad news concerning the Nikon strobe. Your slave will work fine with a Vivitar strobe, though.
pjcaver
Re: Wil's comment about the Sunpak 444D and gels. There are colored filters for the Vivitar 285HV available on eBay for about $10, but you can actually slide gels into the slot on the side of the flash head: it works with a 2" (or 5 cm) wide gel, like those sold at www.flashgels.co.uk.
I would not recomend trusting your analog or digital meter to measure the spike that you 283 could put into your camera. Neither will really tell you what is happening. An oscilloscope showed mine at over 40 volts. I always use a safe synch
Did someone say the safe-synch could leak if bad?
I bought one of these in the starving student pack from Midwest, everything seemed fine except one thing, the flash does not fire, I can press the button on the back and make it fire and that's about it. Not from the hotshoe adapter with cable to it, not with my Elinchrom triggers, only hassle I had with it so far. So I threw it on a shelf and left it there, and use my Canon EX 430 II and Nikon SB 28 instead. I honestly believed this was a good flash, now I know it's a worthless flash for me. Don't buy it is my advice.
Bardster-
Those flashes are guaranteed. Just contact them and arrange for a replacement.
-DH
Hi, i own an SB600 flash and a cactus wireless trigger and receiver for use with my D300.
i Now need a second flash but my badget does not allow me to go to sb line. how can i make VIVITAR 285 to work with my setup?
will i just have to purchase 1 more cactus receiver and connect it on the vivitar ?
Please help
thanks
Steve
Steve: You will probably have to buy a second Cactus receiver of the same model number as the original one to trigger your second strobe. I've read in several ads for the Cactus that there have been some design changes and that they are not compatible with older versions of the Cactus. You only need the one transmitter (you couldn't possibly fit more than one on your camera hotshoe as it is!), but each additional flash unit needs its own receiver. Be sure that all the receivers are set to the same channel as the transmitter. Also be sure that each strobe is set to flash on manual mode. The SB600 can be set to work with TTL metering or manual, the V285 can't. As such, you have to set the SB600 to manual to match that of the V285 which, by default, is manual. If you have them set to different firing modes, you'll find that one of the flashes won't appear in the image you just took, despite swearing on your mother's grave that both flashes went off! They may have both fired, but the shutter wasn't open when one of the flashes went off. It can be enough to drive you out of your mind!
An alternative, but one that's probably not very practical, is to use a visual light or infrared slave on your second strobe. The light flash from the strobe hooked up to the Cactus will, in theory, trigger the second strobe at the same time. However, that depends on the output of the first strobe being strong enough to trigger the second one and the slave on the second strobe being sensitive enough to respond to the light flash from the first one. This would work in an ideal world, but I have yet to take a single shot where everything has been ideal!! As such, stick with a second Cactus receiver as the way to go. They may have a limited firing range, but if your current setup works for you, it's probably OK.
pjcaver
Lets say i have a Vivitar 285HV and i would like to use it as a off camera flash, like most people use when its on a stand and it fires as soon as you take the picture with a canon. I have a canon rebel xs and would like to know what all i need to trigger my Vivitar 285HV please write back to me at kmorales3141@yahoo.com
I've used my 285HV for 4 years now, and it still works great. I have also seen that they have a 383 out now that has TTL, swivel head, built in slave mode, plus some other features. I'm just getting into the whole 'off-camera' mode of using my 285 and really like this site. Tons of info that I have yet to fully digest. Thanks for having this info out there.
Am I missing something here concerning the high voltage issue? It seems to me that it shouldn't be a problem if the flash is going to be fired off camera, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I bought this flash from mpex and was really exited on the starving strobist kit. Problem raised as soon as I got this, the included cable with the flash will not connect in the flimsy mount which is to big for the included plug, so that way was out the window, the included wein with household cable did also not trigger the unit. So the only way to make a flash was to put it on-shoe which defeated the entire scope. Later I bought Elinchrom Skyport which again also did not manage to flash the unit. My two other flashes (Canon 430 EX II and Nikon SB 26) works brilliant in any configuration. However the HV285 is not playing ball still, consequently after trying a lot of options I am now down to one left, split a PC cable and solder it to the flimsy PC adapter port and hope that works, if nobody else have any better ideas? I will never buy one of these again due to the assembled quality but I really want the one I had for a year to at least work for my feebay work.
Well, Bardster, what did they say when you *called MPEX* to ask them about it?
They have great customer service, but you actually have to call them and let them know there is a problem to get it.
As opposed to leaving comments on blogs . . .
EB
A-HA!
I went to Goodwill today for one of my frequent treasure hunts, and WHAM!!! I see a good-as-new, big, ugly Vivitar Zoom Thyristor 285 for...
$4.99.
Picked it up. Took it home. Popped in some fresh batteries. IT WORKS!
So, really I just came to brag. I AM SO HAPPY!
Quicky course in multi-flash:
Voltage - make sure WHATEVER you plug into your camera or hotshoe DOES NOT put higher voltage into the camera than rated for, or you WILL KILL IT.
Radio transmitters are SAFE and low voltage unless you have something VERY UNUSUAL.
NOT ALL STROBES ARE SAFE. You MUST check everything.
Okay so here's what you do:
1) radio transmitter on YOUR CAMERA. No damage to your camera this way.
2) radio receiver on your PRIMARY flash/strobe. Make sure THAT STROBE is safe to use with THAT RECEIVER or you might kill the receiver (a lot cheaper than killing your camera!)
3) use Wein or your choice of other FLASH OPERATED TRIGGERs on all your other flashes/strobes. Again, if the strobe puts out more voltage than the Peanut (or whatever) it WILL KILL IT (eventually) but that's a lot cheaper than a dead camera.
No need for multiple radio receivers, which all need BATTERIES, whereas flash activated triggers DON'T.
Keep EXTRA SPARES of your critical pieces handy in case you still manage to kill something or it simply dies from a manufacturing defect.
Measured the voltage with a multimeter...reads about 6.18V.
This should be safe to use on my Nikon D80, right?
Does anybody know how I can get hold of three 285HV's in the UK. I know they on offer on eBay from the states but by the time you add on postage and packing it has increased the cost by 40%. They don't seem to be sold new retail anywhere in the UK. Is that correct or have I missed a supplier?
Thanks so much for this site. It's been around 18 years since I've done any off-camera flash. So, this site is fantastic to dust the cobwebs out of my brain and I'm sure learn more than I did.
I have a 285 HV that used to work GREAT when I used it all the time. It's been sitting in a box for a long time. I'd like to start using it again with my Canon Speedlight 430EX. Both off camera. I'm still afraid of it damaging my Canon 40D.
It seems like there are different experiences from the Comments as to the safety. I bought this back in the late 80's and the box says Made in Korea. I also have a battery pack. Will that change the power?
I'm eager to go through your 101 course. I actually have a lot of that equipment in a box and couldn't remember how to use it!
Thanks for any comments as to the safety considerations with my camera
I don't know if anyone has seen this before, but there's a useful page at http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html which lists 'safe' voltages for a wide range of strobes. At least it's a bit of a guideline even if not set in stone.
Like pjcaver I'm a cave photographer and heartily endorse his recommendation of the Firefly infra-red slave unit, an amazing piece of kit. Can't see why anyone would want to use anything else when you've used one of these. http://www.fireflyelectronics.co.uk
Hugh
Can this work with a CyberSync?
Thanks, MULU, for the comments on the Firefly Slaves. Better for someone else to be singing their praise than me as the US distributor. As a fellow cave photog, you surely know how well they work.
As to In Info's comments and questions, you're right, they WERE great strobes, especially the one you found made in Korea. Probably the best location in which they were made in terms of quality, durability and safe voltage levels. Regardless of that, you're safest bet for using ANY strobe with your digital camera is to get a Wein Safe Synch. Can't stress how important that is IF you are connecting your strobe directly to your camera hotshoe.
On the other hand, if your strobe is being connected to a remote slave, such as a Wein, Firefly or any other good slave unit, the strobe voltage makes no difference to the camera. Since it is not attached to the camera (and assuming you're using the built-in on-camera flash as your trigger) there's no problem.
I use Vivitar 283 and 285 strobes for nearly all my cave photo work. They are nearly always attached to slaves. However, I sometimes attach the strobe by way of the coiled cable that plugs into the variable output dial on front of the strobe. This DOES attach it to the camera and makes the strobe voltage an issue. Safe Synch in place and all is well with the world. Without it, you're running the risk of an extremely expensive failure to your camera.
If you're looking to learn more about lighting and to work with it, there's an excellent book by my good friend Chris Howes from Great Britain. It's entitled Images Underground and is the bible of cave photography technique. It does not cover digital photography as it was written before digital came on the market, but the techniques are the same regardless of capture method. Although it deals with cave photography in particular, it is still applicable to surface usage.
All for now. Good luck on returning to flash photography.
pjcaver@gwi.net
Thanks, MULU, for the comments on the Firefly Slaves. Better for someone else to be singing their praise than me as the US distributor. As a fellow cave photog, you surely know how well they work.
As to In Info's comments and questions, you're right, they WERE great strobes, especially the one you found made in Korea. Probably the best location in which they were made in terms of quality, durability and safe voltage levels. Regardless of that, you're safest bet for using ANY strobe with your digital camera is to get a Wein Safe Synch. Can't stress how important that is IF you are connecting your strobe directly to your camera hotshoe.
On the other hand, if your strobe is being connected to a remote slave, such as a Wein, Firefly or any other good slave unit, the strobe voltage makes no difference to the camera. Since it is not attached to the camera (and assuming you're using the built-in on-camera flash as your trigger) there's no problem.
I use Vivitar 283 and 285 strobes for nearly all my cave photo work. They are nearly always attached to slaves. However, I sometimes attach the strobe by way of the coiled cable that plugs into the variable output dial on front of the strobe. This DOES attach it to the camera and makes the strobe voltage an issue. Safe Synch in place and all is well with the world. Without it, you're running the risk of an extremely expensive failure to your camera.
If you're looking to learn more about lighting and to work with it, there's an excellent book by my good friend Chris Howes from Great Britain. It's entitled Images Underground and is the bible of cave photography technique. It does not cover digital photography as it was written before digital came on the market, but the techniques are the same regardless of capture method. Although it deals with cave photography in particular, it is still applicable to surface usage.
All for now. Good luck on returning to flash photography.
pjcaver@gwi.net
Correction: Chris Howes' book is entitled Images Below, not Images Underground. My mistake. I should not write so late at night....
pjcaver
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